The Kensington is one of those impressive white stucco buildings which line the streets of South Kensington. Branded flags flutter from the balcony above the door, and when you step across the threshold, leaving Queen’s Gate behind, it feels as if you have entered an exquisitely designed private home. The velvet furnishings in the lobby are deep, dark blue and gold, and on the wet, stormy autumn night when I arrived, the warm glow from the lighting and the open fireplaces was wonderfully welcome.
I came early to Town House, The Kensington’s sophisticated in house restaurant, and so had my choice of tables in the elegantly decorated dining room. I chose a spot in the corner where I could people watch, and where it would still be quiet enough to hold a conversation with my companion once the room filled up. We started with cocktails — including a fabulously dry martini — whilst browsing the menu.
The Food and New Menu at Town House Kensington
Whenever I’m lucky enough to be reviewing a restaurant, I always ask the waiting staff for their recommendations. They know what’s fresh and seasonal, and have often already tried many of the dishes. The recommendations at Town House were prompt and imaginative: tiger prawns with harissa aioli and lime, and Dorset crab on toast with apple and watercress for the starters; then a rack of pink lamb with charred squash, peas, and salsa verde, and the fish of the day for mains. We ordered them all, plus a bottle of crisp white wine.
The starters came at a leisurely place. Service wasn’t slow: that’s not what I’m saying. Rather, the waiting staff seemed to judge the flow of our conversation — we had a lot of catching up to do — and ensured we weren’t interrupted. When our chatter lulled for a moment, there they were: two beautiful presented plates for our delectation.
Photo by Rebecca Hope
The crab was fresh and fragrant, and the acidity of the apple was an effective contrast in flavours. I only managed to convince my dining companion to part with half a prawn, so it’s fair to say they were delicious enough to make him possessive.
A perfectly cooked rack of lamb sounds simple enough, but it notoriously difficult to get right. I like it very pink and tender, yet well browned on the outside. The Town House’s chef obviously enjoys his lamb the same way, so I was thrilled. Pairing it with the charred squash was a creative choice; the creaminess texture of the vegetable went well, and the salsa verde then added a tang. I didn’t get to try the sea bass. All I can say is that it was beautifully presented, and devoured at quite some speed!
Restaurant Atmosphere and Verdict
By now, the restaurant had filled up, and there were multiple lively conversations going on around us. Mostly the other diners were couples; a few looked as though they might have been eating with a group of colleagues. The waiting staff moved between tables in a well practised choreography, always available and attentive but never intrusive.
I didn’t have space for dessert: I’d filled up to the brim on the savoury courses. But sorbet doesn’t count, which is just as well. I somehow squeezed in two scoops: the tangy raspberry and a sweeter, smoother mango. I did eye up the creme brulee across the table, with its beautifully crispy surface, but there was no way I’d have managed a spoonful of that as well.
Town House looks smart and sophisticated, as befitting its South Kensington location. But there’s not a hint of pretentiousness here, either in the menu or the service. I’d be perfectly happy dropping in for a casual lunch or afternoon tea with a friend as I would treating a date to a slightly more formal dinner. And if I were lucky enough to be staying at The Kensington, I’d certainly want to dine in.
Sophie Ibbotson is an entrepreneur, writer, and lover of wild places. She’s the author of five Bradt Guides, including the first guidebook to South Sudan, and provides tourism development consultancy through her company, Maximum Exposure.
