A little way down the road from the Colombian Embassy in Knightsbridge – where I once danced like an idiot at a Latin American roots music event following too many rum cocktails with my friend Colombian Jack (but that’s another story) – lies a classy haven of authentic Italian hospitality: Harry’s Dolce Vita.
Knightsbridge is a funny old part of London; a place where you’re as likely to be a prominent feature in the photos of wide-eyed tourists as you are to be swept off the pavement entirely by ice cold, elegant shoppers moving between boutiques. Years ago I overheard the area’s location being described as “a loafer’s throw from the Kinger’s” – as in within close proximity to the King’s Road – which I think sums up the character of the place perfectly.
Interior and Atmosphere
And it is here that Harry’s Dolce Vita stands, its large green and white awning and wicker outdoor chairs tricking you into believing for a brief and wonderful moment that you’re promenading down Milan’s Corso Venezia. Inside, the restaurant manages to feel both welcoming and exclusive, with dark wood-panelling, dominant curved bar, mirrors on the ceiling and photos of handsome Italian people hanging on the walls.
The restaurant is narrow, with busy waiters bustling past at all times carrying stacked trays of drinks, tapping each other on the shoulder and chuckling away as they go. But rather than feeling cramped or panicked, this just adds to the vibrant, bustling atmosphere. It felt like we were about to enjoy some upscale dining on the Orient Express, headed somewhere exotic and exciting.
The Food and New Skye McAlpine Menu
I was there to try out the restaurant’s new Venice-inspired menu created in collaboration with chef and food writer Skye McAlpine, which runs at Harry’s until May 31. Despite the lively, rushing atmosphere, the ever-friendly staff at Harry’s are more than happy for you to take your time over ordering, which I did with a rosemary garnished Italian G&T made with Bordiga Occitan Italian Gin – we ended up having two or three of these because they were outstanding.
The Sky McAlpine menu is by no means extensive – in fact the only real choice to make is whether you’re going to have one, two or three courses. Instead, it is a well-crafted showcase of authentic Venetian home-cooking – McAlpine’s speciality, and one of my personal favourites.
The starter is a lemony rainbow coloured salad (Insalata di carciofi , faro e menta), where the zesty artichoke hearts sing out at you over the noisy ricotta salata and chives, and everything is bound together by the wonderfully soft faro grains. Absolutely delicious. Had this been the sole dish, I would have been content.
But it wasn’t of course, and next up came a perfectly al dente, buttery linguine course with parmesan and sliced asparagus (Linguine agli asparagi). This was very light and flavoursome, and gave the impression of being something that could be whipped up easily in a rustic Italian kitchen. And perhaps for Skye McApline and the Harry’s Dolce Vita chefs it is, but I know from having tried it that these simple pasta dishes are very difficult to master – and this was absolutely spot on.
On the side, selected from the main menu, we dipped in and out of a basket of crusty bread with a silky rich tapenade, some mushroom polenta and six truffle arancini. There aren’t many things I enjoy more than well-cooked arancini, and these were heavenly.
Verdict
To finish, as Frank Sinatra crooned at us from the speakers and the public’s enjoyment levels were cranked up to 11, I was served a strawberry sorbet in prosecco with a shot of a vodka (Sgroppino all fragola). Wham bam thank you ma’am. I discovered while chatting to our waiter that the three courses are all highlights from McAlpine’s book A Table in Venice, which you’re able to buy at the restaurant after you’ve been dazzled by the food itself.
And dazzled you shall be. This was my first experience of Harry’s Dolce Vita and a very welcome introduction to Skye McAlpine’s recipes. In all, a winning combination, and one I highly recommend you try should you find yourself within a loafer’s throw of the Kinger’s between now and the end of May.
Find out more about Skye McAlpine’s menu at Harry’s Dolce Vita.
George Clode is a travel and culture writer, and a multimedia commissioning editor for travel
