Thanks to year-round sunshine, “California’s ultimate desert playground” is a favorite among discerning travelers from the U.S. and beyond. More than just see-and-be-seen pool parties, the city’s midcentury modern architecture, luxury spas, chef-driven restaurants, and celebrated annual events, including Modernism Week and the Palm Springs International Film Festival, are all major draws. Here’s how to spend two days in this dreamy Sonoran Desert escape.
L’Horizon Resort & Spa Pool
DAY 1 in Palm Springs
2PM: CHECK-IN: L’HORIZON HOTEL & SPA
Originally designed as a discreet Hollywood hangout by celebrated architect William F. Cody––Marilyn Monroe and several US Presidents all stayed here–– this boutique property recently enjoyed a multi-million-dollar refurb by prominent Los Angeles designer Steve Hermann. Each bungalow suite (there are 25 total) is styled with new and vintage décor and has a private patio. Within the grounds there’s a handsome bow-tie-shaped infinity-edge pool and romantic onsite restaurant SO•PA helmed by executive chef and James Beard Award nominee, Garrett Melkonian.
3:30PM: PALM SPRINGS ART MUSEUM
Yoshitomo Nara’s larger-than-life “Your Dog” greets you upon entering this expansive downtown complex – where there are 28 galleries and two sculpture gardens to explore – and which showcases an impressive trove of modern and contemporary artworks by big names like Warhol, Lichtenstein, and Picasso. Significant West Coast artists include printmaker Sam Francis, and Edward Ruscha, perhaps best-known for his ‘word’ paintings and pop art iconography.
6PM: COUNTER REFORMATION
Hidden within storied ‘it-spot’ Parker Palm Springs, the eclectic menu of small plates, wines by the glass and well-curated playlist of 1968-1972 hits make this petite speakeasy the perfect place for an all-senses amuse bouche of sorts.
7PM: DINNER AT MISTER PARKER’S
The Parker’s decadent and aesthetically pleasing namesake restaurant is a must for dinner––it’s open to non-hotel guests Wednesday through Sunday. Executive chef Hervé Glin’s menu is filled with classic French dishes while the wine list showcases top producers all organized by tongue-in-cheek monikers: Craxy, Sexy, and Cool.
Parker Palm Springs Hotel Lobby
DAY 2 in Palm Springs
10AM: PALM SPRINGS ARCHITECTURE TOUR (2.5 HOURS)
Capped at five guests per group, knowledgeable local guide Trevor O’Donnell presents a selection of Palm Springs’ most iconic public buildings and privately-owned homes designed by some of the most respected and influential midcentury architects. Highlights include The Edris House by E. Stuart Williams and the Donald Wexler Steel House.
*Tours depart from H3K Home––at time of publishing they are currently sold out until Friday, April 5th
1PM: LUNCH AT THE BARN KITCHEN
Tucked inside the Sparrows Lodge––former 1950s getaway of MGM actor Don Castle, now a rustic 20-room retreat––The Barn Kitchen is a hidden local gem. The chicken salad ‘sando’ is a favorite on chef Gabriel Woo’s lunch menu, enjoy with a refreshing glass of sangria. Seating is limited so call ahead for reservations.
2:30PM: PALM SPRINGS AERIAL TRAMWAY
The 10-minute journey up to Mount San Jacinto State Park is a breathtaking one and affords a one-of-a-kind perspective of Palm Springs, Coachella Valley and beyond to Salton Sea. Departing every 30-minutes, a revolving tram car (the world’s largest) whisks you to Mountain Station (at 8,516 feet) and an alpine forest filled with 50-plus miles of hiking trails. There’s a restaurant and museum here too but it gets chilly so don’t forget the sweater.
*At time of publishing the Palm Springs Aerial Tram will be closed until late April due to winter storm damage.
ALTERNATIVE: Pop culture fans might enjoy a visit to the ELVIS HONEYMOON HIDEAWAY – the iconic Palm Springs residence designed by William Krisel where the King purportedly carried new wife Priscilla over the threshold while singing Hawaiian Wedding Song from his film “Blue Hawaii”. Or you could visit the landmark MOORTEN BOTANICAL GARDENS, which has lovingly showcased desert plants and wildlife since 1938, and a do-it-yourself DOOR TOUR for a glimpse of South Palm Springs’ most colorful portals, are charming options as well. In addition, a seasonal hike in the spectacular TAHQUITZ CANYON on the Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians Reservation will appeal to sportier types.
4:30PM: LE SPA
Head back to L’Horizon for some pampering at Le Spa––try the lemongrass mimosa scrub or seaweed wrap––and splurge on some goodies at Le Shop, which carries Le Labo body products, Tom Dixon candles and MIKOH swimwear. Then, throw in a little time poolside. Depending on the season, you might just catch the sun as it sets over the San Jacinto Mountains while enjoying a pre-dinner glass of wine or craft cocktail from the Pool Bar.
8PM DINNER: 4 SAINTS
Perched on the seventh floor of the buzzy new Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs Hotel, 4 Saints boasts a bold and creative menu thanks to executive chef Stephen Wambach, a stellar cocktail program and splendid mountain views. Noteworthy Mentions: There’s a slew of exciting new eateries around town––standouts include TRUSS & TWINE, the latest from chef/owner Michael Beckman, and sleek sushi/whiskey spot SANDFISH from chef/owner Enin Onural.
The Shops at Thirteen Forty Five
DAY 3 in Palm Springs
9AM: YOGA + BRUNCH
Enjoy a leisurely last morning before packing commences. On weekends, get centered with the yoga class (held every Saturday at 9 a.m.) followed by brunch (Friday, Saturday, and Sunday only) at SO•PA––the restaurant also serves in room for those who would prefer to take breakfast on their private patio.
12PM THE SHOPS AT THIRTEEN FORTY FIVE
This collective of boutiques and galleries is the perfect place to pick up a tasteful take home souvenir on your way out of town. Housed in the iconic – and very pink – E. Stewart Williams designed building on North Canyon Drive, stop by Palm Springs Style for locally inspired gifts and stationary, Towne for art and contemporary apparel, Double M Pottery for ceramics, and Lindy California for sophisticated vintage—namely jewelry and objet d’art.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Eleven airlines serve Palm Springs International with non-stop flights to major US and Canadian cities, including Los Angeles and New York, with onward connections worldwide. Ride share services (Lyft and Uber) operate across Coachella Valley––for a more elevated experience luxury private town and classic car services are also available.
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Keri Bridgwater is a freelance writer based in San Diego, California. Her bylines have featured in the London Evening Standard and Roam Magazine, among other international outlets. She covers travel, lifestyle, culture, art and design related stories for AGLAIA Magazine. Follow her on Instagram
