The southwestern Colorado town of Telluride not only boasts bona fide frontier roots – Butch Cassidy is famed for robbing his first bank here – but some of the best skiing in North America. Tucked inside a remote box canyon in the San Juan Mountains, whether arriving by car or landing at the local airport (one of the highest in the U.S.), an outdoor wonderland awaits. In winter, namely two thousand acres of multi-level terrain that spans a mellow “meadows’ beginner slope to mogul runs and expert level only hike-to-bowls.
And while Telluride might be home to Gay Ski Week (February) and the now the world-famous film festival (September), Hollywood stardust and fabulousness aside, there’s an authentic small-town feel here. Top-notch après and dining options await both on and off the mountain, and lovingly restored Victorian Villas bookend downtown’s Main Street, which is dotted with independent restaurants, bars, breweries, and boutiques.
DAY 1 in Telluride
1PM: CHECK IN: DUNTON TOWN HOUSE or HOTEL MADELINE
Just steps from the Gondola, Dunton Town House offers a luxe home away from home experience thanks to its 24 hour concierge –– the house manager can take care of everything from ski passes to dinner reservations –– and wonderful European breakfast each morning. For ski-in ski out from Mountain Village, the Madeline Hotel and Residences, an Auberge Collection has impeccably-appointed guest suites and residences, a pool and full-service spa.
2PM: EXPLORE MAIN STREET
Grab a hot drink at the Coffee Cowboy and stroll along Main Street; its dramatic backdrop framed by the spectacular Bridal Veil falls. Local shops worth a look include CashmereRED and The Toggery for apparel, T.Karn Imports and MiXX Projects + Atelier for home goods, Jagged Edge for performance gear, and Telluride Truffle for chocolates.
5PM: COCKTAILS AT THERE
Fans love “New American Izakaya” there for its eclectic global tapas, craft cocktails, and convivial vibe. Measuring just 850-square-feet and with seating for 32 guests, the space fills up fast, so be sure to call way ahead for reservations.
7:30PM: FINE DINE AT THE NATIONAL
Telluride’s buzziest new restaurant The National serves sophisticated yet approachable plates with menu options ranging from tempura rock shrimp and kampachi tiradito appetizers to entrées like Moroccan lamb chops and five spiced duck. The drinks list and wine program here are both stellar, too. Advance reservations highly recommended.
DAY 2 in Telluride
9AM: HIT THE SLOPES
Weather and fresh powder depending, experienced skiers and snowboarders might want to hit the back bowls around mid-morning. Hike Mount Baldy for a warm-up before attempting the Gold Hill Chutes or skiing the backside of Revelation Bowl. Intermediate and beginners should enjoy the stash of blue runs below Bon Vivant Restaurant.
1PM: SKI IN SKI OUT LUNCH AT ALPINO VINO
Perched at 3,647m along See Forever just off Lift 14, European hütte Alpino Vino is the spot for high-elevation fine dining, thanks to Chef Nicola Peccedis’ menu of Italian Alpine gourmet comfort food –– think antipasto, fine cheeses, and cured meats –– plus a well-curated wine list. Wednesday through Sunday, Alpino reopens from 6 to 10 p.m. for reservation-only dinners with a snowmobile shuttle service from the San Sophia Gondola mid-station.
3PM: LAST TRACKS
Squeeze in a few more runs post-lunch until the last chair at 4 p.m. Headed back to town? From San Sophia, take it easy on Telluride Trail, bomb the trees on Coonskin and O’Reilly’s or simple soak in the views on a Gondola ride.
5PM: APRÈS AT ALLRED’S
Better yet, stick around in Mountain Village between last chair –– pop into Breathe Skin & Body for a relaxing massage or Tomboy Tavern for a hot chocolate –– and happy hour at Telluride’s flagship restaurant, Allred’s. Mix and match small bites and plates from the bar menu, then sit back with a drink and enjoy the sunset.
7:30PM: DINNER AT THE CHOP HOUSE
Telluride’s historic New Sheridan Hotel is also home to the Chop House. A classic steakhouse consistently voted one of the best restaurants in town, where standouts from chef Michael Moran’s menu include the elk tenderloin and dry-aged bison ribeye. After dinner, slide over to the Sheridan’s Historic Bar. One of the oldest saloons in the West, it dates from 1895 and many original features, including mahogany wood paneling and filigree light fixtures, remain.
DAY 3 in Telluride
10AM: HUSKY SLED RIDE
While the more adventurous types might want to do the half-day heli-ski tour and fresh tracks in nearby Silverton Mountain on the books, another fun way to explore the area is by going for an exhilarating sled ride through the scenic San Juan backcountry and Uncompahgre National Forest trails with a team of trained Alaskan huskies.
3PM: DUNTON HOT SPRINGS
Combined stays can be arranged at Dunton Hot Springs, a former mining camp now rustic-chic retreat (and sister property to Dunton Town House) in neighboring Dolores. Just under two hours from Telluride by car, for those not overnighting, a special day package allows visitors to soak and stay for either lunch or dinner instead.
4:30PM: TAKE THE WATERS
There are a handful of public places to enjoy a soak at Dunton, including a restored 19th century bathhouse and outdoor pool behind the Dunton Store. The waters here are a rich in calcium bicarbonate with a concentration of dissolved iron, manganese, and lithium––all said to help lower bloody pressure, improve circulation, and clear the complexion.
7:30PM: DINE IN THE SALOON
After an action-packed day of sledding (or skiing) and a relaxing soak, sit down to dinner at the communal table in Dunton’s Saloon and watch the chefs whip up seasonally driven dishes while deciding on a bottle from the reserve wine list. Those fortunate enough to stay overnight can pick between thirteen authentically restored hand-hewn log cabins –– the Well House comes with its own private hot spring soaking tub, and Major Ross a wood-burning stove.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
British Airways offers a daily non-stop service from London Heathrow to Denver International with onward connections to the town of Montrose (a 75-minute drive from Telluride with numerous ground transportation options available) or Telluride directly via United and United/Denver Air.