Written by Sophie Ibbotson and Edward Day
The mountains are calling and I must go…
From the moment that the first few flakes of snow fall, throughout the winter and into spring, the Alps exert a powerful pull. Yes, there’s the joy of skiing and the fun of apres ski, but nothing compares to the way in which the fresh, clean air, the bright rays of sunshine sparkling off the snow, and the wide open spaces lift the spirit.
A week in the mountains of Courchevel should be available on prescription; we’d all be happier and healthier as a result. Here’s how to spend a long weekend in the most exciting of French Alpine resorts.
Photograph by William Day
DAY 1 in Courchevel
1PM: CHECK IN: LE C RESIDENCE
Le C Residence — part of Alpine Lodges — is one of the newest properties in Courchevel 1650. A Scandi-style apart hotel, it’s right next to the escalator which takes you to the slopes, the main street, and Aquamotion. Le C boasts its own spa; a superb restaurant, Bistrot Le C; and also a well stocked ski room with two charming ski butlers. Apartment A05 has a particularly good selection of contemporary art, and will comfortably sleep up to eight people.
2PM: OXYGENE SKI SCHOOL
If this is your first time on skis, an introductory lesson is a must, but those with more experience will also benefit from private tuition to brush up on their technique, or simply get their bearings with a guide. Oxygene brings a modern, customer focused approach to teaching, and instruction is available in any language you might need.
5PM: APRES SKI AT FAHRENHEIT SEVEN
Apres ski is just as important as the time you spend on the slopes. Fahrenheit Seven has a wide, sun drenched terrace in the heart of Courchevel 1650, so drop off your skis and chill with a beer or an Aperol Spritz. Cheers!
7.30PM: FONDUE AT LE PETIT SAVOYARD
No trip to the French Alps would be complete without a fondue, and you’ll find the best in the region at Le Petit Savoyard. In fact, this restaurant specialises in everything cheese related, so loosen your belt and treat yourself to the huge raclette and divine tartiflette as well.
Photograph by William Day
DAY 2 in Courchevel
10AM: HIT THE SLOPES
Lifts open from 8.30 AM onwards, but if you start out at 10 AM you’ll miss the ski school rush hour. Courchevel’s piste map is easy to read, and if you take the main gondola straight from 1650, you’ll have dozens of well maintained slopes to choose from.
1PM: TAKE A BREAK
There are plenty of mountain chalets dotted across the slopes, many with scenic views towards Mont Blanc and the other equally impressive Alpine peaks. Choose one with deck chairs where you can rest your feet and relax in the sun, sipping on a glass of local Savoie wine and checking out the latest ski fashion trends at the same time.
2.30PM: ART ON THE SUMMIT
2019 marks the 10th anniversary of Art on the Summit in Courchevel, and there are some stunning works of sculpture both in the resort and dotted around the mountains. This afternoon, ski between some of the art hot spots: don’t miss King Kong as The Thinker, or the gorgeous red stag standing proud. There are also some striking works of sculpture by Dali, which are easily accessible if you’re on foot.
4.30PM: APRES SKI AT LA TAIGA
For tonight’s apres ski, descend to the village of La Tania. La Taiga is a chalet-style bar just off the slopes, with a lively crowd and an excellent cocktail menu. They often host live music acts, and it’s a wonderfully laidback place to wile away a few hours in the late afternoon.
7.30PM: FINE DINING AT AZIMUT
Courchevel is renowned for its culinary scene: remarkably, there are almost a dozen Michelin starred restaurants in the resort, two of which have three Michelin stars a piece. Chef François Moureaux won his first Michelin star for Azimut in Le Praz, and it’s a fabulously unpretentious place. Unlike many high end restaurants where the chef divides his or her time between different sites, Moureaux cooks here night after night. Ask for a tasting menu paired with local wines, and you’ll appreciate the breadth of flavours which come from the Savoie region, plus Moureaux’s mastery of his art.
Getting back to Courchevel 1650 after dinner is a breeze; a free shuttle bus links all the villages in the resort.
Photograph by William Day
DAY 3 in Courchevel
10AM: EXPLORE BEYOND COURCHEVEL
Courchevel is connected by lifts and runs to Meribel and Val Thorens. The Three Valleys ski area is one of the largest in the world, and it is covered by a single ski pass.
Make today the day you cover some distance: head east across the mountain range as far as you can go. If you make it to Val Thorens, The Tyrolienne is your reward. It’s a 1,300 m zip wire across the valley, and you’ll reach speeds of up to 105 km an hour.
3PM: DANCING AT LA FOLIE DOUCE
La Folie Douce is the biggest name in apres ski in the Three Valleys. Open daily until 5 pm during the ski season, it’s packed with revellers throughout the afternoon. DJs, live musicians, and other performers get the party pumping, and the open air terrace becomes a vast dance floor.
4.30PM: LAST LIFT!
In order to get back to Courchevel, make sure you catch the lift before it closes. The last Saulire Express of the day leaves Meribel at 4.45 PM, and if you miss it then it is a much longer journey home by road.
7.30PM: A FINAL DINNER AT LE C
Bistrot Le C is one of the best contemporary dining options in Courchevel 1650 and the ideal place to eat on your final night. The chef has created a menu which fuses international dishes with Alpine favourites: the egg with Beaufort cheese and Savoie ham, black truffles and polenta is to die for, and the delicious cod poached with seaweed butter and served with shellfish and risotto comes imaginatively served in an edible bowl made of artichoke.
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Sophie Ibbotson is an entrepreneur, writer, and lover of wild places. She’s the author of five Bradt Guides, including the first guidebook to South Sudan, and provides tourism development consultancy through her company, Maximum Exposure.
