It was hammering it down with rain when we made the 11 minute walk from Hampton Court station to the Kings Arms. Not a long time, 11 minutes, but when the equivalent of a large bucket of water is being emptied onto your unprotected head every second for those 11 minutes, it certainly does start to drag.
In that downtrodden state, arriving at a bus stop would have been blessed relief. Imagine my unsurpassed joy, then, when we were welcomed in by our hosts to a supremely cosy, early 18th-century inn, where a fire crackled in the large hearth and the dimly lit bar was alive with the promise of restorative brandies.
The Location of The Kings Arms
The walk from the station on a good day is a pleasant stroll through the stunning extended grounds of Hampton Court Palace – former residence of Henry VIII) and Bushy Park. The hotel sits so close to the palace grounds that from the landing on the second floor you can peer into the twists and turns of its famous maze and over the nearby gardens.
If you want to get a closer look, the reception staff are pleased to organise tickets to the palace and give local recommendations, as I discovered over breakfast the following day. The inn has been providing R&R to road-weary travellers since at least 1709 – before that having been a small scale brewery, selling beer to the palace’s staff and soldiers.
The Kings Arms Rooms
The Kings Arms has come a long way since its humble beginnings, and is now a charming 14-bedroom boutique hotel with Superior, Luxury and Deluxe rooms and the magnificent Hampton Suite. Our superior room overlooked Bushy Park, where cars drive at a respectfully slow pace to allow for the frequent crossing of the park’s indecisive deer population. The great beasts will charge towards the main road a pace and stop to amble leisurely across it, often coming to a complete halt in the middle to survey the large traffic queue they’re causing, before bounding off again triumphantly towards the trees on the other side.
Our room was comfortable, warm and beautifully designed, with a green-tiled ensuite that would be the envy of any budding interior designer. Comfy bed – check, Nespresso machine – check. I was already looking forward the lie in I had planned the next morning.
The Restaurant
While location, rooms, design and history are all more than enough reason to visit the Kings Arms, its restaurant – The Six, named after Henry VIII’s wives – is surely the hotel’s trump card. Re-opened in September after two years of renovation, and helmed by Michelin Star chef Mark Kempson, The Six is an atmospheric den of a restaurant serving hearty British fare with an innovative twist.
We were sat at our table near an exposed brick alcove housing a massive wine rack and hung with a Hockney-esque painting. Our waiter was very attentive and accommodating of my girlfriend’s allergies, making it clear she could choose whatever she liked and the chef would tailor it to avoid the deadly ingredients. It’s a small thing, but so many places simply remove options rather than adapt them – so that was an immediate tick.
We started with big old wedges of sourdough with whipped shalott butter and a mini wine tasting with the sommelier, who guided us through the best wines based on our food choices. Inspired by the regal environs, I went into full Tudor mode and ordered rabbit, pheasant and cheese.
The starter was a beautifully-presented pressed rabbit with truffle and an inspired combo of hazelnut, celeriac and broad bean with a fresh, gardeny pickled onion. This complex affair was well complemented by a glass or two of clean pinot noir. Up next was pheasant with chestnut risotto, king oyster mushrooms and parsley puree paired with the recommended mendoza malbec. The nutty risotto was rich and unctuous, with the puree cutting through the clag to make it a kingly mouthful.
We finished with a selection of British cheeses with English Orchard Chutney, a glass of port, and a promise not to eat again for a week if I wanted to avoid gout.
The Verdict
Forty-five minutes from Waterloo and on the doorstep of a world famous baroque palace, I’m amazed that all 14 room of the Kings Arms aren’t booked up until 2030. It was the perfect hideaway from the blustery, week-long autumnal downpour outside, and with a restaurant to rival any of the Central London big names, it’s worth the journey even if you’re not staying.
Everything from the original tiles spelling out the hotel’s name as you walk in to the care and attention given to its restaurant menu make this a special place to spend a night or two. Londoners looking for a convenient slice of history-steeped countryside – this one’s for you.
Find out more about The Kings Arms
George Clode is a travel and culture writer, and a multimedia commissioning editor for travel
