Bushmans Kloof Wilderness and Wellness Reserve, South Africa

Bushmans Kloof lies in the staggeringly beautiful Cederberg Mountains of South Africa’s Western Cape in what is generally considered a harsh and inhospitable place, but this is definitely not the case at Bushmans Kloof’s Wilderness and Wellness Reserve, which stands out as an oasis of comfort and is exceptionally welcoming. A Red Carnation hotel and part of Relais & Chateaux, we expected the absolute best…and the absolute best is what we got.

Our excitement mounts as we arrive at the reserve gates, and once through, the landscape before us is breathtaking. Each turn reveals another spectacular view. After driving through this incredible landscape for about 30 minutes, we see what appears to be a mirage! An oasis of greenery rises in front of us. With huge smiles we arrive at the Manor House, where a wonderfully warm greeting awaits. You can feel how special Bushmans Kloof is immediately.

Bushmans Kloof Location & Setting

On a nature drive later that afternoon, we experienced just how stunning and diverse the landscape is. It’s mind-boggling and humbling to hear how the unique rock formations formed over 500 million years ago. The mountains provide a dramatic backdrop to the wilderness landscape of rolling hills, vast open plains, and pristine fynbos, which is a vegetation unique to South Africa’s Western Cape and part of the Cape Floral Kingdom, with exceptional floral richness, biodiversity, endemism, and of crucial conservation importance, our guide explains. Unsurprisingly, he informs us that UNESCO designated the region a World Heritage Site in 2004 because of its extraordinary biodiversity. And in the springtime (August – September), the region is world-famous for its dazzling display of wildflowers.

As if this is not enough, our guide tells us about the 200 species of animals living and thriving on the reserve, something you would not imagine is possible, seeing how rocky and arid it is here. And there’s more, as the reserve has one of the world’s largest private herds of Cape Mountain zebra, which is all due to Bushman Kloofs’ committed conservation and land regeneration, and their wildlife reintroduction programme. This project has saved the Cape Mountain Zebra from extinction and has also seen the return of the magnificent Red Hartebeest, Grey Rhebok and Ostrich, as well as the Bat-Eared Fox, African Wildcat, Cape Fox, Caracal and Cape Clawless Otter. The cedar trees for which the area takes its name were also near extinction, but Bushman Kloof has planted 800 trees so far.

This family-owned lodge is an ecological sanctuary, embodying a narrative of preserving an ancient landscape for future generations—the landscape is revitalised and is now free from predators and malaria. Bushmans Kloof offers a harmonious blend of natural beauty where quiet luxury goes hand in hand with sustainability, cultural heritage, and wilderness, making it an exceptional and awe-inspiring destination for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The Rooms

Each of the 14 bedrooms reflects the owner’s passion for tradition, with a nod to the history and culture of the region, with antiques, heritage furniture and collectables. Two suites, one with a private pool, offer complete seclusion surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens sweeping down the Boontjies River’s banks. Two luxurious private villas offer the ideal space to spend time with friends and loved ones amid the natural beauty of this ancient land.

Food & Drink

An on-site organic kitchen garden provides fresh organic produce for the hotel’s dining rooms. A medicinal herb garden grows traditional botanical remedies used by the San and Khoikhoi generations. The Homestead is the heart of Bushmans Kloof and a perfect gathering place with a lovely bar and an excellent bartender. Our martinis were divine, adorned with locally grown olives from a local farmer. The adjoining courtyard has a heated pool, a gym, and a shaded terrace for alfresco dining.

Makana, the San word for “to feast”, is an all-day dining venue that echoes the natural caves and simple dwellings used by the indigenous inhabitants of this ancient landscape. Clad in local sandstone and roofed with traditional thatch, it overlooks a vast lawn and the Boontjies River. Don’t miss the breakfast feast or the indulgent high tea! Meanwhile, Kadoro, which translates as ‘a tinderbox of stories,’ is a gloriously restored shepherd’s house reserved for special intimate dinners. Filled with dozens of flickering candles and, on cooler nights, a crackling fire, it is utterly gorgeous and highly romantic.

If you wish to dine under the stars, Ember is set away from the main lodge. You can dine under the Milky Way on a terrace built into the rock face perched over the spectacular valley below; a fire roaring and dozens of candles and lanterns make this unique location even more so.

Nature Drives

Catching sight of and spending time with the reserve’s animals is magical and satisfying. To see them in their natural habitat, happily roaming, free from predators, as they head to the water holes early in the morning and evenings as the sun goes down, washing everything in a golden glow, is magical. The landscape is stunning, and the African skies and light are unreal. The evening drives end with sundowners in one of the many gorgeous spots in the reserve, including the boma overlooking a gigantic valley below that feels as if you are at the edge of the world, looking in.

After dinner, a night drive shows the reserve in an entirely different light! Under the cover of darkness, the rare nocturnal inhabitants of the Cederberg, including aardwolf, African wildcat, bat-eared fox and porcupine, come to life. You can also enjoy a ‘nightcap’ after dinner on an hour-long astronomical journey of the constellations, sky lore, cultural traditions, and spirituality around nature on a mesmerising stargazing experience with your guide.

Things to Do

There’s plenty of things to do around the hotel. The Boontjies River is a vital feature of Bushman’s Kloof Wellness Reserve, providing water and biodiversity as it enhances the reserve’s natural beauty. The river running through the lodge attracts animals day long; a herd of hartebeest walks the entire length of the river bed each morning and evening, along with a daily visit from the playful baboons and a constant cacophony of bird calls fill the air. At the same time, Dassies clamber over the mountains behind the river.

The lawn has an over-the-edge swimming pool and sun loungers to chill while observing nature in its natural habitat. And the hotel’s spa is in a secluded location with captivating garden views from its expansive floor-to-ceiling windows. Part of the spa and set aside from the main spa area, this tiny spot has an outdoor terrace perfect for alfresco treatments with amazing panoramic views over the tranquil waters of the Boontjies River. Or if relaxing isn’t your thing, why not try fly fishing (the fish are released back into nature unharmed), canoeing, or swimming in the rock pools and waterfalls nearby? There are many walking trails, as well as archery, painting, croquet and mountain biking is available.

For cultural and history enthusiasts, the hotel’s Heritage Centre offers a fascinating visual journey through the staggering history of the San, who roamed this region between two and ten thousand years ago, with a staggering collection of cultural artefacts, some of which are over 2,000 years old. The Library had a fascinating collection of African reference works, a few novels for a little light reading, and a comprehensive collection of wildlife films. Bushmans Kloof protects 130 distinct rock art sites, some dating back over 10,000 years, offering insight into the San people’s lives. Bushman Kloof’s rock art curator, Londi Ndzima, advocates for education and engaging with local communities to preserve their cultural heritage.

A Transformative Experience

The therapeutic benefits of connecting to nature are well-known, and the hotel’s breathtaking, tranquil setting and abundant nature envelop you in its healing magic. It compels you to breathe the fresh air deeply, lift your face to the sunshine, and revel in the joy of connecting with the world around you. Your stress evaporates, and you feel lighter, happier, and “free”. Your mind feels clearer, and your soul feels soothed. Nature is the ultimate therapist. Bushmans Kloof offers the comforts and service you would expect from a Relais & Chateaux hotel. The service is fantastic, but, more importantly, it is warm and friendly. It is also a handpicked member of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, selected for its exceptional guest experience and solid commitment to sustainable practices.

Staying at Bushmans Kloof offers a transformative experience, immersing oneself in a sanctuary where nature’s beauty envelops every moment. Here, amidst the majestic mountains and rugged landscape, one is reminded of our profound connection with the Earth. The vibrant colours, the vast skies, and the play of light create a sense of harmony that soothes the soul and feeds the senses. It envelopes you in nature’s magnificence and effortlessly rekindles a deep-seated bond with the natural world, leaving a lasting sense of peace and rejuvenation.

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Anji Connell
Anji Connell

An internationally recognised interior architect and landscape designer, she has worked on numerous projects around the world. An eye for detail and love of all things art, architecture, travel and design have led to a nomadic lifestyle resulting in a greater focus on travel and lifestyle feature writing. She is a contributor for a range of international print publications. Living between Hong Kong, Cape Town, and London, traveling anywhere.

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