How do you explain the curious quirks of afternoon tea? My guest, Christy, is a recent arrival from New Zealand and has settled in quickly to London life. There was one thing lacking from her cultural immersion, however, and that was the finer points of afternoon tea, my favourite national institution. The marvellous 108 Pantry – the sophisticated restaurant of The Marylebone Hotel – was the perfect place to put that right.
The panelled grey-blue walls are formal and reminiscent of a Victoria parlour, a feeling emphasised by the fireplace, mantelpiece, and mirror. Flashes of bright red in the seating, ikat cushions, and a huge, bright bunch of sunflowers beside our table, however, added a more playful touch. The table was already set for tea and, I’m delighted to say, not only were there sprigs of lavender on the napkins, but also individual tea strainers and vintage style Champagne coupe glasses. Clearly the designers had thought about every little detail.
The afternoon tea menu is a celebration of Britain and its produce, with an occasion nod to ingredients brought back from the Empire. The sparkling wine is English – the light and citrusy Balfour Leslie’s Reserve NV from Hush Heath Estate in Kent – and the list of teas runs to several pages. I chose a nutty green genmaicha from Shizuoka, Japan.
If there is one piece of advice I can impart to you, it’s skip lunch on the day you plan to come for tea. The three tiered cake stand is heavily laden, and you want to be able to savour every morsel.
We began with the middle tier, which is where the savoury delicacies were to be found. It’s hard to pick a favourite between the miniature Dorset crab crumpet with apple and watercress, and the melt in the mouth truffled brie with a Jerusalem artichoke crisp. The smoked salmon in Guinness black bread was a welcome twist on a perennial favourite, and I can honestly say I’ve never enjoyed coronation chicken as much as I did in this tiny tartlet.
During an afternoon tea, it’s (almost) all about the scones, and 108 Brasserie’s certainly didn’t disappoint. They were still slightly warm, fluffy, and came in two different versions: plain, and pear and cardamom. The portions of strawberry jam and Devonshire clotted cream were generous, and I made sure to educate Christy about the proper way to eat them. Yes, the jam must go on first!
Last but certainly not least, the patisserie really were a selection of little artworks. The quince fool was an unusual choice, but the slight tang cut through the creamy sweetness of the other treats. The slice of chocolate and orange battenburg was just the right size, and the plum and pistachio delice tasted just as good as it looked. I hardly had space for the apple and blackberry custard tart as well, but I’m very, very glad that I did.
Afternoon tea at 108 Pantry costs £32 per person, or £42 with a glass of English sparkling wine.
Sophie Ibbotson is an entrepreneur, writer, and lover of wild places. She’s the author of five Bradt Guides, including the first guidebook to South Sudan, and provides tourism development consultancy through her company, Maximum Exposure.
