There are two things which make me think of England more than any other: afternoon tea, and a country garden. The two have come together in a fusion of tastes, scents, and colours at Balthazar, who are hosting their autumn-winter season FLOWERBX Afternoon Tea in partnership with FLOWERBX florists.
Balthazar occupies a superb location just a couple of minutes’ walk from Covent Garden and opposite the Royal Opera House. The impressive facade is currently festooned with tasteful red and gold Christmas decorations, and when you step inside you feel as if you’re transported to fin de siecle Paris. The high ceilings, mosaic floors, warm lighting, and huge mirrors enhance the space.
We were ushered to a table at the back of the brasserie, past some appropriately glorious flower arrangements and a mouthwatering selection of seafood on ice. I came with my godmother – a girls’ outing was long overdue – and toasted our arrival with a glass of the house Champagne and the FLOWERBMB cocktail. This magnificent peony pink drink is the creation of Head Bartender Massimiliano Favaretto, and in it he infuses hibiscus, rose, and Blanquette.
The triple tier tea appeared on a silver stand, presented with a flair by the utterly charming waiter. We began with finger sandwiches, all with the crusts removed. The cucumber, mint, and homemade hummus was an unusual twist on a traditional favourite; and a hint of apricot made the coronation chicken slightly sweet. Besides the sandwiches was a lobster prawn roll, which at first glance looked like a miniature hamburger but tasted oh so much better.
Moving to the second tier, there was a quartet of buttermilk scones, two plain and two with raisins. They were light and slightly warm, with just the right amount of crumble in the texture. We spread the homemade strawberry jam and Devonshire clotted cream thick, and still there was some spare.
But it’s the top tier of the stand which really stood out, aesthetically as well as in terms of flavour. Here, the collaboration with FLOWERBX’s florists really stands out: every cake and tart has a floral theme.
In no particular order, the dark and indulgent purple swirl is a blueberry ranunculus, a blueberry tart with lemon posset and candied violets. It is perfectly complemented by the berry macaron flavoured with redcurrant and kirsch. The Balthazar rose is a raspberry jam financier accompanied by a vanilla.
Saving the best to last, the coconut and yuzu hydrangea looks exquisite. The base is a crunchy coconut biscuit topped with a dome of creamy yuzu mousse. This is then decorated with dozens of individual sugar flowers; truly it is an artwork, and what is more the slight sharpness of the yuzu cuts through what would otherwise be excessive sweetness.
Balthazar has a laid back atmosphere, and the standard of service is excellent. The FLOWERBX Afternoon Tea was the perfect treat for my godmother as we spent some quality time together; I’d happily repeat the experience with my mother or a group of girly friends.
The FLOWERBX Afternoon Tea is served daily from 3pm. Prices start from £29.95 per person.
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Sophie Ibbotson is an entrepreneur, writer, and lover of wild places. She’s the author of five Bradt Guides, including the first guidebook to South Sudan, and provides tourism development consultancy through her company, Maximum Exposure.
